Boulder and Lead, Men
| Date | 5 – 9 August 2024 |
|---|---|
| Status | Olympic |
| Location | Le Bourget Climbing Venue, La Bourget, France |
| Participants | 20 from 15 countries |
In a remarkable upset, 19-year-old Toby Roberts captured the gold medal, becoming Great Britain’s first Olympic champion in sport climbing. His victory was particularly notable, as he overcame Japan’s Sorato Anraku - the 17-year-old gold medal favorite, reigning World Cup overall champion, and the first climber to win both the Lead and Boulder Overall World Cups in his debut senior season (2023) -, who had led the competition after the boulder stage. Roberts, sitting third after the boulder round, delivered a standout lead climb, scoring 92.1 points to bring his total to 155.2 and secure the gold medal. Anraku ultimately won silver with 145.4 points after an unexpected fall during the lead round prevented him from reaching the top of the podium.
Veteran climber Jakob Schubert (AUT) earned his second consecutive Olympic bronze medal with a combined score of 139.6 points. Although his bouldering score was modest, Schubert’s exceptional lead climb of 96.0 points secured his place on the podium, matching his result from Tokyo 2020.
Despite a strong lead performance, five-time World champion and Tokyo 2020 silver medalist Adam Ondra (CZE) finished off the podium due to a low bouldering score of 24.1 points. The defending Olympic champion, Alberto Ginés (ESP), also failed to medal.
| Pos | Bib | Competitor | NOC | Qualifying | Final | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2 | Toby Roberts |  GBR | 122.2 (2) | 155.2 (1) | Gold | ||
| 2 | 1 | Sorato Anraku |  JPN | 137.1 (1) | 145.4 (2) | Silver | ||
| 3 | 3 | Jakob Schubert |  AUT | 98.8 (5) | 139.6 (3) | Bronze | ||
| 4 | 6 | Colin Duffy |  USA | 87.9 (7) | 136.4 (4) | |||
| 5 | 18 | Hamish McArthur | GBR | 79.3 (8) | 125.9 (5) | |||
| 6 | 8 | Adam Ondra |  CZE | 116.8 (3) | 120.1 (6) | |||
| 7 | 13 | Alberto Ginés |  ESP | 100.7 (4) | 116.2 (7) | |||
| 8 | 12 | Paul Jenft |  FRA | 91.1 (6) | 78.4 (8) | |||
| 9 | 10 | Yannick Flohé |  GER | 68.8 (9) | – | |||
| 10 | 4 | Tomoa Narasaki | JPN | 66.5 (10) | – | |||
| 11 | 9 | Sam Avezou | FRA | 61.3 (11) | – | |||
| 12 | 16 | Pan Yufei |  CHN | 59.1 (12) | – | |||
| 13 | 7 | Alexander Megos | GER | 48.7 (13) | – | |||
| 14 | 15 | Hannes van Duysen |  BEL | 46.3 (14) | – | |||
| 15 | 5 | Lee Do-Hyeon |  KOR | 46.0 (15) | – | |||
| 16 | 17 | Luka Potočar |  SLO | 43.6 (16) | – | |||
| 17 | 11 | Sascha Lehmann |  SUI | 36.1 (17) | – | |||
| 18 | 14 | Jesse Grupper | USA | 30.9 (18) | – | |||
| 19 | 19 | Campbell Harrison |  AUS | 23.4 (19) | – | |||
| 20 | 20 | Mel Janse van Rensburg |  RSA | 16.5 (20) | – |
Qualifying Round
| Date | 5 – 7 August 2024 — 10:00 |
|---|---|
| Format | Top 8 climbers qualify for the final. |
| Pos | Competitor | NOC | Points | Bouldering | Lead | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sorato Anraku | JPN | 137.1 | 69.0 (1) | 68.1 (=2) | ||
| 2 | Toby Roberts | GBR | 122.2 | 54.1 (3) | 68.1 (=2) | ||
| 3 | Adam Ondra | CZE | 116.8 | 48.7 (5) | 68.1 (=2) | ||
| 4 | Alberto Ginés | ESP | 100.7 | 28.7 (14) | 72.0 (1) | ||
| 5 | Jakob Schubert | AUT | 98.8 | 44.7 (6) | 54.1 (=6) | ||
| 6 | Paul Jenft | FRA | 91.1 | 34.1 (9) | 57.0 (5) | ||
| 7 | Colin Duffy | USA | 87.9 | 33.8 (11) | 54.1 (=6) | ||
| 8 | Hamish McArthur | GBR | 79.3 | 34.2 (8) | 45.1 (8) | ||
| 9 | Yannick Flohé | GER | 68.8 | 29.7 (12) | 39.1 (9) | ||
| 10 | Tomoa Narasaki | JPN | 66.5 | 54.4 (2) | 12.1 (=14) | ||
| 11 | Sam Avezou | FRA | 61.3 | 49.2 (4) | 12.1 (=14) | ||
| 12 | Pan Yufei | CHN | 59.1 | 29.0 (13) | 30.1 (10) | ||
| 13 | Alexander Megos | GER | 48.7 | 24.7 (15) | 24.0 (=11) | ||
| 14 | Hannes van Duysen | BEL | 46.3 | 34.3 (7) | 12.0 (=17) | ||
| 15 | Lee Do-Hyeon | KOR | 46.0 | 34.0 (10) | 12.0 (=17) | ||
| 16 | Luka Potočar | SLO | 43.6 | 19.6 (17) | 24.0 (=11) | ||
| 17 | Sascha Lehmann | SUI | 36.1 | 24.0 (16) | 12.1 (=14) | ||
| 18 | Jesse Grupper | USA | 30.9 | 18.9 (18) | 12.0 (=17) | ||
| 19 | Campbell Harrison | AUS | 23.4 | 9.4 (=19) | 14.0 (13) | ||
| 20 | Mel Janse van Rensburg | RSA | 16.5 | 9.4 (=19) | 7.1 (20) |
Final Round
| Date | 9 August 2024 — 10:15 |
|---|
| Pos | Competitor | NOC | Points | Bouldering | Lead | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Toby Roberts | GBR | 155.2 | 63.1 (3) | 92.1 (=3) | ||
| 2 | Sorato Anraku | JPN | 145.4 | 69.3 (1) | 76.1 (5) | ||
| 3 | Jakob Schubert | AUT | 139.6 | 43.6 (5) | 96.0 (=1) | ||
| 4 | Colin Duffy | USA | 136.4 | 68.3 (2) | 68.1 (7) | ||
| 5 | Hamish McArthur | GBR | 125.9 | 53.9 (4) | 72.0 (6) | ||
| 6 | Adam Ondra | CZE | 120.1 | 24.1 (=7) | 96.0 (=1) | ||
| 7 | Alberto Ginés | ESP | 116.2 | 24.1 (=7) | 92.1 (=3) | ||
| 8 | Paul Jenft | FRA | 78.4 | 24.4 (6) | 54.0 (8) |